Kundan-An Ancient Art



When we talk about the traditional Indian jewelry first thing comes to our mind is kundan, polki jadau etc. because of their uniqueness and design intricacy. Kundan jewelry is nothing less than an art. It’s a dream of every jewelry lover to have at least have one piece of such proficiency in their collection. Wearing kundan Jewellery undoubtedly gives a feeling of being nothing less than a queen, that’s why it plays major part in the bridal jewelry of every bride to be. Jewellery has been a great attraction in India, which was not only considered for adoration but also for the security reasons also. Gold jewellery is most famous among the women in India. Gold is very auspicious and the symbol of status.

BACKGROUND  

Kundan is of the oldest form of Indian jewelry which got popularity in Mughal era and majorly seen in the royal gatherings of Rajasthan and Gujrat. The most mesmerizing kundan meena jewelries were done during that period. During the Mughal’s period, the art of kundan jewellery making was spread to Delhi, Gujarat and Rajasthan ad few other parts of Indian. In later days the craftsmen from various parts of the country migrated to Rajasthan and started the art of kundan jewellery making which made Rajasthan a hub of kundankari work. Word Kundan mean highly refined gold. Kundan keshri’ is the oldest name, which is called as ‘Kundan’ in general terms today. The purest form of melted gold is used to set the stones for making the authentic kundan piece.

MAKING OF KUNDAN JEWELLERY

Kundan jewellery is created by setting carefully shaped, uncut diamonds or piece of fine glass and polished multicolored gemstones into an exquisitely designed pure gold or faux metal base. It is Basically stoned from one side and the Meenakari on the other side of the jewellery. Word Meenakari is originated from a Persian word. (Will elaborate on Meenakari in my upcoming blog).

-The process begins with the skeletal framework called Ghaat.

-Thereafter, the Paadh procedure takes place, during which wax is poured onto the framework and molded according to the design.

-Following this is the Khudai process, when the stones or uncut gems are fit into the framework.

-Then enamelling done to define the design details, which is referred as Meenakari.(as shown in image)

-Next, the Pakai process involves gold foils that hold the gems onto the framework; these are cold soldered using burnishing techniques.

-Finally, the gems are polished using the Chillai process.

The best thing about kundan jewellery is that it goes well with any style you wish to pick. Despite of being in major demand during wedding season people also opt this for festive season. One can always pair a small decent pair of earring or ring for office purpose. People who are little bit into experiments can combine the stylish dress with big pair of earnings or a small nose ring(just like the style icon Sonam Kapoor. Kundan isnot always available in high prices, people those are planning to spend less and yet want to enjoy kundan can CHECKOUT SOME DESIGNS and add them to your ornament box.

By Palak

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